Frequently Asked Questions
General Flooring FAQ's
All flooring sold at Olson Floor Supply is produced by NOFMA Certified Manufacturers. NWFA/NOFMA-certified wood flooring is made by NWFA manufacturing members that have pledged to uphold the NWFA/NOFMA standards.
NOFMA, which stands for the National Oak Flooring Manufacturers Association, is a set of hardwood flooring standards that have been adopted and administered by the National Wood Flooring Association (NWFA). While originally focused on oak, the NOFMA standards are now used to grade and certify a wide variety of hardwood flooring products. These standards ensure consistency and quality in the hardwood flooring industry, covering aspects like appearance, milling, and moisture content.
Keep your floors clean by sweeping or vacuuming often to eliminate dust and debris. When mopping, use a damp—not soaking—mop along with a cleaner that's safe for wood surfaces. Be careful to avoid too much moisture, and attach felt pads to your furniture legs to help prevent scratching.
Engineered hardwood flooring features a core made from high-quality plywood or high-density fiberboard (HDF), topped with a thin layer of real hardwood veneer (wear layer). This hardwood surface is adhered to the core using strong adhesives. The cross-grain construction of the plywood core enhances dimensional stability, making the flooring less likely to swell, split, or cup when exposed to moisture. Engineered wood floors are also considered DIY-friendly and typically have a lifespan of 20 to 30 years.
Solid hardwood flooring is considered by many people to be the “gold standard” in flooring. Constructed from one solid piece of 100% hardwood, it’s known for its durability, authenticity and timelessness.
Color: Red oak has pinkish/red undertones while White Oak has brownish/tan undertones.
Grain Pattern: Red Oak has a more varied or “wild” grain, with many swirls and deviations. The grain lines are also wider which can give them a wavy or zigzag appearance. White Oak grain lines are smaller and tighter, making it look much straighter and uniform.
Expect your floor to have natural variations in grain and color from piece to piece. That’s what makes real wood uniquely beautiful. We provide product samples and photographs to help with your selection, but your newly installed floor will vary from any samples or photos, because wood is unique.
NWFA/NOFMA certified flooring is graded in accordance with the NWFA/NOFMA specifications. Appearance alone determines the grades of hardwood flooring since all grades are equally strong and serviceable in any application. Boards are individually graded according to the natural characteristics of their appearance. Grades are determined by clarity, grain appearance, knots, dark stains, character marks and other features that might have been present in the tree. All characters included in a higher grade are automatically accepted in lower grades.
Select Grade: Contains all the variations in coloration produced by the contrasting differences of heartwood and sapwood. Also included are minimal character marks, such as small knots, worm holes, and mineral streaks, as well as slightly open characters. The combination creates a floor where the light sapwood and dark heartwood are combined with small characters and other small color interruptions.
#1 Grade: A flooring product characterized by prominent color variation that also contains prominent characters such as knots, open checks, worm holes, along with machining and drying variations. No. 1 Common is a tasteful floor where prominent variation is expected.
#2 Grade: Contains sound natural and manufacturing variations including knot holes, open worm holes, and other open characters along with prominent color variations. Manufacturing variations include drying characters and machining irregularities. No. 2 Common is most desirable for applications where numerous notable character marks and prominent color contrast is desired.
Select Grade: Random Length 1’-7’ With An Average Length of 33”
#1 Grade: Random Length 1’-7’ With An Average Length of 30”
#2 Grade: Random Length 1’-7’ With An Average Length of 24”
A. Storage and Conditions
1. Do not store wood flooring at the jobsite under uncontrolled climate conditions. Garages and exterior patios, for example, are not acceptable areas to store wood flooring.
2. Ideal interior climate conditions vary from region to region and jobsite to jobsite. It is your responsibility to know what your “ideal” climate conditions are and build your floor around those conditions.
B. Acclimation
1. Ensure that the building is enclosed.
2. Verify that the building is maintained at normal living conditions for temperature and humidity.
3. Where building codes allow, permanent heating and/or air-conditioning systems should be operating FOR AT LEAST 5 DAYS PRECEDING INSTALLATION to promote proper acclimation.
4. If it is not possible for the permanent heating and/or air-conditioning system to be operating before, during and after installation, a temporary heating and/or dehumidification system that mimics normal temperature and humidity conditions can enable the installation to proceed until the permanent heating and/or air-conditioning system is operating.
5. Upon delivery, check wood flooring moisture content with a moisture meter to establish a baseline for required acclimation. Check the moisture content of multiple boards. A good representative sample is typically 40 boards for every 1,000 square feet of flooring. Acclimate to manufacturer’s recommendations or as necessary according to geographical location and your job site location.
6. Prior to installation, ensure that wood flooring is within acceptable range of moisture content with the wood subfloor. For solid strip flooring (less than 3” wide), there should be no more than 4 percent moisture content difference between properly acclimated wood flooring and subflooring materials. For wide-width solid flooring (3” or wider), there should be no more than 2 percent difference in moisture content between properly acclimated wood flooring and sub-flooring materials.
The ideal moisture content (MC) for hardwood flooring is about 6–11% when the indoor environment is 60–80 degrees Fahrenheit and 35–55% relative humidity.
Actual interior MC conditions in any location may differ significantly from these numbers.
BE SURE TO ACCLIMATE THE FLOORING, CHECK THE MC IN THE SUBFLOOR, CHECK THE MC IN THE FLOORING ITSELF, AND CHECK THE RELATIVE HUMIDITY IN THE ROOM BEFORE INSTALLATION.
Pre-Finished Flooring Questions
Prefinished hardwood flooring is manufactured under controlled factory conditions where it’s cut, sanded, stained, and sealed before being shipped out for installation in a home or business. This method offers both benefits and drawbacks. In the end, whether to choose prefinished flooring or one that's finished on-site depends entirely on the preferences of the homeowner or business owner.
Prefinished hardwood floors offer a quicker installation process. They eliminate the dust, odor, and disruption that come with sanding and finishing on-site—plus, there’s no need to vacate the space or wait several days before using the floors. In a factory setting, manufacturers can apply multiple layers of high-performance sealants, enhancing durability and boosting resistance to scratches, stains, and general wear. The controlled environment also ensures a more uniform and consistent finish across each plank. With lighter-colored flooring, natural wood tones can cause noticeable variation. Since prefinished boards already show their final shade, it becomes easier to create smoother transitions between planks during installation.
Yes, prefinished hardwood floors can be refinished just like those finished on-site. However, some come with a tougher, factory-applied coating that can make sanding more challenging and may reduce how many times the floor can be refinished over its lifetime. That’s why it’s essential to consult with the manufacturer to understand the specific type of finish used and what refinishing options are available.
Unfinished Flooring FAQ's
Unfinished hardwood flooring refers to natural wood that hasn’t been treated with stain or sealant prior to installation. Unlike prefinished flooring, it is sanded, stained, and sealed directly at the job site. This approach allows for complete customization of the floor’s appearance. It’s a preferred option for homeowners and contractors seeking a tailored stain color or a smooth, uniform finish.
While unfinished hardwood flooring typically comes with a lower initial price tag compared to prefinished options, the overall installation expenses can be higher. This is because it must be sanded, stained, and finished at the location, which increases labor costs. Still, the final outcome is a personalized floor that feels uniquely tailored to your home.
Yes. Just like any type of hardwood flooring, unfinished wood needs time to acclimate to the temperature and humidity of your home. It’s usually recommended to let the wood rest indoors for about 3 to 7 days before installation. This helps avoid potential problems down the line, such as warping or gaps.
Engineered Vinyl Plank (EVP) Flooring FAQ's
Vinyl flooring is a synthetic flooring option crafted primarily from polyvinyl chloride (PVC). It's widely appreciated for its strength, water-resistant properties, and low-maintenance nature. Available in multiple formats—such as planks, tiles, and sheets—vinyl flooring can convincingly replicate the appearance of natural materials like wood or stone.
SPC: SPC stands for either stone-plastic composite or stone-polymer composite—both terms are used interchangeably. It's also commonly known as Rigid Core luxury vinyl flooring, a name that highlights its ultra-dense core made from a stone and plastic blend. Similar to WPC, SPC flooring is completely waterproof and is classified in the industry as engineered vinyl flooring. Due to its durability, SPC is suitable for both residential and commercial environments.
WPC: Technically, WPC refers to wood-plastic composite vinyl flooring. However, it's also commonly interpreted as waterproof core vinyl flooring. Both definitions are accurate. WPC vinyl flooring is entirely waterproof, featuring a core composed of a blend of plastic and wood materials. Within the flooring industry, it’s often classified as engineered vinyl flooring. Due to its softer feel underfoot, WPC is particularly suited for residential applications.
When properly maintained, vinyl flooring can have a lifespan of 20 to 25 years—or potentially even more—depending on the specific type. Key factors that influence its longevity include the thickness of the wear layer, the amount of foot traffic it experiences, and how well the floor is cared for over time.
Remove dirt and grit by sweeping or dust mopping, wipe up spills as quickly as possible and avoid exposure to direct sunlight for extended periods of time. Avoid using abrasive cleaners, ammonia-based products, vinegar-based products and harsh chemicals, as they can damage the luxury vinyl's surface. Always refer to your care guide for a complete list of products to use and avoid.
Paint FAQ's
Most previously painted, undamaged and untainted walls do not require priming, especially when using a high-quality interior paint. Some special instances, however, require a primer:
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Adhesion (non-porous or glossy surface)
Bonding primers increase adhesion over an existing glossy finish or a non-porous substrate like paneling.
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Hide (color change)
Primer (tinted or white) obscures or hides a dark existing color when painting over with a light color or vice versa. Benjamin Moore premium paints (Ben® Interior, Regal® Select Interior, Aura® Interior) deliver a self-priming level of hide that can help achieve most color changes in two coats with no primer.
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Seal (stain blocking)
Stain-blocking primers suppress stains from smoke, tannins or water. Without a primer, those stains can come through even after painting. Consider priming just the stains (spot-priming) instead of the entire wall.
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Sheen (enamel holdout)
Alkyd primer, such as Insl-X® Prime Lock Plus, seals varnish or residual adhesive from removed wallpaper for better sheen or enamel holdout.
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Uniformity (porous surfaces, new drywall)
Primer fills and evens out porous surfaces like new drywall. New drywall should always be primed, because it’s very porous and therefore can absorb moisture, odors, oils or other stains.
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Each Benjamin Moore product is different, so the official answer is that the amount of time it takes Benjamin Moore paint to dry is "it depends."
Each Benjamin Moore product has a Technical Data Sheet (TDS) which is the best place to look for product-specific paint dry-times.
For a general idea, however, consider the typical drying time of our most popular premium brand, Regal® Select Interior:
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Dries to the touch: 1 hour
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Recoat time: 1-2 hours
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Full cure: 14 days ('curing' is the point where the paint reaches maximum hardness)
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Other influences for how long it takes paint to dry:
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Substrate types: Drywall, brick, wood, metal, vinyl, stone, concrete, ceramic tiles, plastic
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Environment: Paint takes longer to dry in humid environment, and dries faster in dry ones
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Waterborne acrylic/latex paints, like Aura® Interior, Regal® Select Interior and Ben® Interior, dry faster. Alkyds, oil-based, and waterborne alkyds, like Advance® Interior paint, generally take longer to dry.
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Deciding which Benjamin Moore paint is best depends on your needs as a customer as well as the project. That said, here are three of the best Benjamin Moore interior paints:
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Aura® Interior paint is Benjamin Moore's ultra-premium paint. Aura Interior offers unparalleled color depth and richness. Aura's Color Lock® technology seamlessly locks pigments into the paint's film, ensuring long-lasting color. Not surprisingly, Aura® Interior is the preferred paint of interior designers.
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Regal® Select Interior is a time-tested premium interior paint that you can trust to deliver outstanding quality and durability for results that last.
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Ben® Interior paint elevates your confidence with its easier application, great touch-up qualities, and longer open time, resulting in flawless results and a more effortless painting experience.
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Deciding which Benjamin Moore paint is best depends on your needs as a customer as well as the application. Here are five Benjamin Moore exterior paints to consider:
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Aura® Exterior paint with its exclusive Color Lock® technology, Aura® Exterior paint provides the ultimate performance for rich, full color and unprecedented durability.
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Regal® Select Exterior paint resists fading, cracking, and peeling and provides a mildew-resistant coating, even in humid conditions.
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Regal® Select High Build is a thick, high-build, 100% acrylic formula that bridges small cracks and voids in fewer coats.
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Element Guard® offers exceptional permeability to withstand wind-driven rain, excessive humidity and other harsh weather conditions on many surfaces, including vinyl siding.
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Woodluxe® Exterior stain enhances the natural beauty of exterior wood surfaces with a wide variety of opacities and colors. Woodluxe® stain provides superior protection against mildew, UV damage, and other harsh weather conditions.
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White Dove OC-17 is the most popular Benjamin Moore white paint color—not surprising, given that white hues are essential to interior design and a go-to for homeowners alike.
Benjamin Moore's Revere Pewter HC-172 is also worth noting as an extremely popular neutral paint color. A classic light gray with warm undertones, Revere Pewter HC-172—part of the Benjamin Moore Historical Collection—is beloved for its calming, restorative look that unifies any room. Check out more best-selling Benjamin Moore paint colors to help select the perfect paint colors for you!
Benjamin Moore's Revere Pewter HC-172 is also worth noting as an extremely popular neutral paint color. A classic light gray with warm undertones, Revere Pewter HC-172—part of the Benjamin Moore Historical Collection—is beloved for its calming, restorative look that unifies any room. Check out more best-selling Benjamin Moore paint colors to help select the perfect paint colors for you!
Yes. Your local Benjamin Moore authorized retailer offers more than 3,500 beautiful colors and many custom color-match options. Talk to your retailer to learn more. Learn more about the "why" behind Benjamin Moore's renowned color on our Gennex® Color Technology page.
To put it simply, no. Our color consistency is the precise result of Benjamin Moore paint and Benjamin Moore Gennex® colorant, together. It's what makes Benjamin Moore colors impossible to replicate.
Machine FAQ's
A floor sanding machine is a powerful tool designed to smooth out wood floors in preparation for finishing or refinishing. It effectively removes surface flaws, old coatings, and uneven spots, leaving the floor ready for treatment with stain, polyurethane, or other protective finishes.
A wood floor edger is a precision sanding tool specifically designed for refinishing hardwood floors in tight or hard-to-reach areas—such as along baseboards, in corners, and around fixtures. It works in tandem with larger drum or belt sanders, helping to achieve an even, consistent finish across the entire flooring surface.
A floor buffer is a powered machine designed for cleaning, polishing, and maintaining different types of flooring, including hardwood. It helps eliminate dirt, scuff marks, and old wax or polish while bringing back the floor's natural shine and luster. Unlike sanding, buffing is a gentler process, ideal for treating surface-level flaws such as light scratches and minor scuffs on hardwood surfaces.
A wood floor nailer or stapler is a dedicated tool used for installing tongue-and-groove hardwood flooring. It drives nails or staples at a precise 45-degree angle through the tongue of each board, fastening it securely to the subfloor. These tools are engineered to deliver the correct depth and angle for each fastener, which is essential for a strong, long-lasting floor installation.
Repair FAQ's
Sanders, Edgers, Buffers, Nailers, Staplers, & Vacuum Equipment
The initial service fee to inspect the machine is $65.00. If you choose to go ahead with the repair after the inspection, this fee will be applied as a deposit toward the total repair cost. If you decide not to proceed with the repair, the fee will cover the cost of the inspection.
All repairs are completed off-site. Machines are picked up and returned on a two-week schedule, with most repairs being completed in that two week period.